Pizza artist inspires tomorrow's chefs with centuries-old technique

Tuesday, October 17, 2023

Photos by Jennifer A. Cline, writer/magazine editor

Students (and faculty) take video and handwritten notes of Chef Roberto Caporuscio’s pizza process.

Chef Roberto Caporuscio recently brought the 300-year-old art of Neapolitan pizza making to the kitchens of Penn College’s hospitality program, where he offered a demonstration and hands-on lesson to students in the Global Cuisine & Connections course, taught by Chef Mary G. Trometter.

Pizza, Caporuscio told students, is a social food – loved by (and affordable to) both rich and poor.

Raised on a dairy farm in Pontinia, Italy, Caporuscio produced and sold cheese. He continues to make his own mozzarella for the pizza he serves at his two New York City restaurants: Keste Pizza and Vino and Don Antonio by Starita. From his farm roots, he went on to study the art of pizza making in Naples, the birthplace of pizza. After training with pizza masters there, he moved to Pittsburgh, where he established two successful pizzerias, then opened A Mano in Ridgewood, N.J., before opening Keste in 2009 and Don Antonio in 2012.

It’s not just food. It’s story. Food is memory.

Chef Roberto Caporuscio

He has been highly praised in the media, including being named “No. 1 Pizza in New York” by New York Magazine, “Best Pizza” in New York State by Food Network Magazine and among the top 25 “Best Pizza Places in the U.S.” by Food and Wine. He serves as U.S. president of the Association of Neapolitan Pizza Makers.

He loves teaching his craft: “It’s not just food,” he explained. “It’s story. Food is memory.”

Caporuscio’s visit was facilitated by Giacomo Berselli, founder of the Marco Polo Program Abroad in Italy. In Spring 2024, the college will offer the course Global Food & Hospitality: Cuisine, Culture & Perspectives, which will culminate in a 16-day experience in various regions of Italy through the Marco Polo Program.

Students try their hands at forming the wet dough, made with a starter, into balls.

Caporuscio gently stretches the pizza dough.

A simple tomato sauce marries the dough with Caporuscio’s soon-to-be-added housemade cheese.

Culinary arts technology students Kassidy J. Kalbach, of Orangeville, and Kylie R. Landon, of Canton, begin to form their crusts. (Kalbach is also enrolled in applied management.)

Billy Baldauf, of York, stretches his pizza on a paddle for placement in the oven. He is assisted by Kade N. Chrostowski, of Moorestown, N.J. Both are students in culinary arts technology. (Chrostowski is also enrolled in applied management.)

Caporuscio lends an expert hand to Landon as she places her pie (with an assist by Kalbach holding the paddle).

An appreciative gathering includes students, Caporuscio (center in blue), Giacomo Berselli (at right), founder of the Marco Polo Program Abroad in Italy, and faculty members Chef Mary G. Trometter (third from right) and Chef Charles R. Niedermyer (to the right of Caporuscio).